【Winter Bowls】Morning Ritual of “Tounao”

冬日的晨光未透，太原的街巷却已醒在蒸腾的白气里。若是寻一样能稳坐太原冬日早餐“头把交椅”的，必是那一碗稠白暖香的“头脑”，配上一笼皮薄馅润的羊肉烧麦。这对相伴三百余年的黄金搭档，是晨起之人与寒冷达成和解的第一声问候。

In the dim light of a winter dawn, the streets and alleys of Taiyuan are already waking amid rising steam. If there is one pairing that firmly holds the “top seat” for breakfast in this ancient city during the cold months, it must be the bowl of thick, creamy, and fragrant “Tounao” served alongside a bamboo basket of delicate, filling lamb Shaomai. This golden duo, companions for over three hundred years, offers the first greeting of the day—a truce between those who rise early and the lingering cold.

“头脑”之名听着猎奇，实则是太原独有的温补药膳，雅称“八珍汤”。自明末清初传世至今，早已入选那“国家级非遗”的名录。它不用猛火，不求速成，只依着时辰慢煨：精选的羊肉炖出清鲜底韵，再倾入醇厚的黄酒，加入粉糯的山药、脆嫩的藕片，佐以酒糟与黄芪等物。小火咕嘟上几个时辰，让羊肉的鲜、黄酒的醇、山药的绵、藕片的爽，以及药材那似有若无的甘香，全然交融成一锅乳白稠滑的汤羹。那香气沉静而笃定，是食物与时间共谋的暖意。

The name “Tounao” (literally “head-brain”) might sound intriguing, but it is actually a unique medicinal stew from Taiyuan, elegantly known as “Eight-Treasure Soup.” Passed down since the late Ming to early Qing dynasties, it has long been listed as a national Intangible Cultural Heritage. It does not rely on high heat or haste, only on slow, patient simmering over time: choice lamb is stewed into a clear, savory base, then enriched with mellow yellow rice wine, tender Chinese yam, crisp lotus root slices, and accented with fermented rice wine lees and astragalus root. Simmered gently for hours over low heat, the lamb’s freshness, the wine’s richness, the yam’s creaminess, the lotus root’s crunch, and the subtle sweetness of the herbs meld completely into a milky, velvety soup. Its aroma is quiet yet assured—the warmth conspired between ingredients and time.

吃“头脑”，定要配上刚出笼的羊肉烧麦。烧麦皮薄如纸，兜着一包丰腴的羊肉馅儿，顶端撮口处微透油光。先咬一小口烧麦，热腾的肉汁顷刻迸溅，再迅即蘸上山西老陈醋，酸香一提，鲜味便活了起来。这时，才不慌不忙舀一勺“头脑”送入口中——初觉其质稠厚温润，细品之下，层次渐显：羊肉的鲜打头阵，黄酒的醇厚悄然托底，山药的绵密与藕片的脆爽在齿间交错，最后是那作为“引子”的一碟腌韭菜，脆生生的一缕咸香，恰如其分地解了腻，清了口。

To eat “Tounao,” it must be paired with freshly steamed lamb Shaomai. The shaomai wrappers are thin as paper, cradling a generous filling of minced lamb, the gathered tops glistening slightly with oil. First, take a small bite of shaomai—the hot, savory juices burst forth instantly—then quickly dip it into Shanxi’s mature vinegar. The tangy lift awakens the umami. Only then, unhurriedly, scoop a spoonful of “Tounao” into the mouth: initially, its texture feels thick and warm; upon closer taste, layers unfold—the lamb’s savor leads, the yellow wine’s depth quietly supports, the yam’s creaminess and lotus root’s crispness interplay between the teeth, and finally, the accompanying dish of pickled Chinese chives offers a crisp, salty note that perfectly cuts through any richness and cleanses the palate.