【Winter Bowls】Slow-Simmered Casserole Stew
冬日天寒,山西人家各有各的取暖法子。在阳泉,这份暖意便藏在日常的砂锅炖菜里——不像铜火锅那般热闹隆重,却自有小火慢炖的妥帖与家常,是冬日里随时能端上桌的、不会凉的热乎气儿。
In the cold of winter, every Shanxi household has its own way of staying warm. In Yangquan, that warmth is hidden in the everyday casserole stew—not as lively or ceremonious as a copper hot pot, but with its own gentle, slow-simmered reliability and homely feel, a steaming comfort that can be brought to the table anytime, a warmth that never cools.

阳泉人炖菜,讲究“吃平定砂锅要用平定砂锅”。这话绕口,却实在。平定砂锅烧造得久,名声也响,据说用它炖肉不变味、烧饭不变色、煎药不变性,是一口有脾气的锅。当地人信这个,也爱这个。
Yangquan people have a saying when it comes to stewing: “To eat Pingding casserole, you must use a Pingding casserole.” The phrase may sound tongue-twisting, but it speaks to a genuine truth. Pingding casseroles have a long history of ceramic craftsmanship and a solid reputation; it’s said that they preserve the flavor of stewed meat, keep rice from discoloring, and maintain the properties of medicinal decoctions—a pot with character. Locals believe in this and love it.

做法倒不复杂。排骨、猪肉或牛肉,配上土豆、豆腐、粉条、腐竹,再添几叶白菜,一股脑儿码进砂锅里,添水加料,盖上盖,便交给小火慢慢煨着。砂锅的性子温吞,保温好,能让每种食材的滋味不急不慌地释放、交融。炖上一两个时辰,满屋已是香气隐约,不张扬,却勾人。
The method itself isn’t complicated. Ribs, pork, or beef are paired with potatoes, tofu, glass noodles, dried tofu skin, and a few leaves of cabbage, all layered into the casserole. Water and seasonings are added, the lid goes on, and it’s left to simmer gently over low heat. The casserole has a patient nature, excellent at retaining heat, allowing the flavors of each ingredient to release and mingle without rush. After simmering for an hour or two, the room is filled with a subtle, inviting aroma—not overpowering, but quietly alluring.

待到揭开盖时,热气“呼”地扑一脸。汤色已是醇厚的琥珀色,微微稠亮,莹莹地裹着每块肉、每片菜。肉早已酥烂,肥的颤巍巍化在舌尖,瘦的吸饱了汤汁,松软入味。土豆炖得绵软起沙,豆腐饱浸鲜香,粉条爽滑筋道,白菜软而不烂,犹存一缕清甜,正好解了肉的腻。
When the lid is lifted, steam wafts warmly over the face. The broth has turned a rich amber, slightly thick and glossy, clinging to every piece of meat and vegetable. The meat has become tender and fall-apart soft; the fatty parts tremble and melt on the tongue, while the lean meat has soaked up the broth, tender and flavorful. The potatoes are soft and almost creamy, the tofu saturated with savory richness, the glass noodles smooth and chewy, and the cabbage soft but not mushy, still carrying a hint of fresh sweetness that cuts through the richness of the meat.

这样一锅,不需多么精细的摆盘,也不必正襟危坐地吃。盛一大碗,配个热馒头或米饭,呼呼地吃下肚,暖意从喉咙一路熨到胃里,再慢慢散到四肢去。寒气被逼退,额角微微冒汗,浑身都舒坦了。
A pot like this needs no elaborate presentation or formal seating. Ladle out a large bowl, pair it with a warm steamed bun or a bowl of rice, and eat heartily. Warmth spreads from the throat down to the stomach, then gradually through the limbs. The cold is driven away, a light sweat beads on the forehead, and the whole body feels at ease.
砂锅炖菜,不是什么稀罕物,却是阳泉人过冬的底气。它把寻常的食材、朴素的做法、耐烦的工夫,和着一口好锅的性情,都炖进了一锅汤里。吃的是滋味,更是日子本身——慢一点,暖一点,扎实一点,便是寒冷时节里,最朴素也最恒久的暖意。
Casserole stew isn’t anything rare or exotic, but it is the reliable comfort Yangquan people rely on to get through winter. It simmers ordinary ingredients, simple methods, patient time, and the character of a good pot into a single vessel of broth. What’s eaten is not just flavor, but life itself—slower, warmer, steadier, the simplest and most enduring warmth in the cold season.
(图源网络侵删)
(The image source is from the internet. If infringement, it will be deleted.)
来源:中华网综合整理
Source: Comprehensive collation by sx.china.com
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