Fenyang: Jia Zhangke's Hometown on Screen, a Sample of a Changing Era

Nanxun Tower stands at the crossroads of Nanxun Road and Yingxin Street in Fenyang. "Nanxun" means "warm wind from the south." The warm wind, also called Xun wind, refers to the gentle breeze from the southeast, symbolising harmony and prosperity. The tower was built in the thirteenth year of the Hongzhi reign (1500), expanded with a Buddhist pavilion in 1594, and renovated in 1673. In 1993, it underwent a complete restoration and was raised by one metre; the current structure dates from the Ming dynasty. This tower is a landmark of old Fenyang and a recurring spatial symbol in Jia's films.

还有汾阳市基督教教堂，建于1910年，由文阿德牧师在汾州府城内南水井街北口主持修建（现今在指挥街）。教堂由祷告堂、钟楼、教堂附属建筑三部分组成。高20米的钟楼拔地而起，极为壮观，是当时城内最高建筑，可俯瞰汾阳全城。祷告堂与钟楼为连体建筑，平面呈十字，钟楼主体为西式风格，顶部则为中国传统的四面歇山式，别具一格。这种中西合璧的建筑，恰如汾阳本身——传统与现代、本土与外来交织。

There is also the Fenyang Christian Church, built in 1910 by Reverend Wen Ade at the north entrance of Nanshuijing Street (now Zhihui Street). It consists of a prayer hall, a bell tower, and auxiliary buildings. The 20-metre bell tower was the tallest structure in the city at the time, offering a panoramic view of Fenyang. The prayer hall and bell tower are connected, with a cross-shaped plan. The tower's main body is Western in style, while its top features a traditional Chinese four-sided hip-and-gable roof—a unique hybrid. This East-West architecture mirrors Fenyang itself: a blend of tradition and modernity, local and foreign.

旅行指南：如何走进贾樟柯的汾阳

Travel Guide: How to Enter Jia Zhangke's Fenyang

到汾阳，建议从老城开始。步行穿过南薰楼所在的十字路口，感受老城的市井气息。然后前往文峰塔，登塔俯瞰汾阳全景——虽然城市已扩张，但那种县城特有的空间感仍在。基督教教堂也值得一看，它见证了汾阳近代以来的开放与变迁。如果时间充裕，可以前往黄河壶口瀑布——那是《山河故人》中另一重要取景地，距汾阳约数小时车程。

Start in the old town. Walk through the crossroads where Nanxun Tower stands and feel the bustle of old Fenyang. Then head to Wenfeng Pagoda and climb it for a panoramic view—though the city has expanded, the county-town spatial feel remains. The Christian church is also worth a visit, bearing witness to Fenyang's modern openness and transformation. If time permits, travel to Hukou Waterfall on the Yellow River—another key location in Mountains May Depart, a few hours' drive from Fenyang.

图源：山西文物

最佳旅行季节是春秋两季。汾阳的街巷适合漫无目的地行走，正如贾樟柯的电影，不追求戏剧性，而在日常中显现诗意。你可以在老城的迪厅旧址感受《山河故人》中那场著名的迪斯科，也可以在破败的工厂前驻足，想象《站台》里那些年轻人的迷茫与渴望。